After an eleven-hour flight, the first two hours at Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam (SSR) airport, in Plaine Magnien in the island's southeast, set the tone for the whole trip. Handled well, they flow without stress: immigration cleared, rupees in your pocket, SIM card active and car keys in hand, you are on the motorway heading to your accommodation before you have even had time to break a sweat.
Here is the step-by-step run-through, with the traps to avoid and the smart moves, in the exact order things happen on arrival.
Immigration: fill in the digital form before you fly
Mauritius has replaced the old paper landing cards with a digital travel form to be completed online before departure (ideally within 72 hours of your flight). It combines immigration, health and customs information: keep the confirmation PDF or QR code on your phone, as some officers ask to see it. Have the full address of your first accommodation ready too, as the form requires it.
At the immigration desk, present your passport (valid for the length of your stay, with six months' remaining validity recommended) and, if requested, your return ticket and proof of accommodation. Queues move at a reasonable pace normally, but when two large European aircraft land at the same time early in the morning, allow up to 45 minutes. Be patient: the lagoon is not far away now.
Withdrawing rupees: ATMs beat the exchange counters
The Mauritian rupee (Rs) is the only currency that really works day to day: markets, small restaurants and petrol stations rarely take cards for small amounts. In the arrivals hall you will find ATMs from the main local banks (MCB and SBM among others): this is generally the simplest and fairest way to get cash, at your bank's interbank rate minus any fees it charges.
The airport exchange counters will do in a pinch, but always compare the displayed rate with the real one (around Rs 47 to the euro in recent years, to be checked on the day): the gap can be significant, and rates are often better in town. Our advice: withdraw enough for two or three days (Rs 5,000 to 10,000), decline dynamic currency conversion if the ATM offers it (always choose to be charged in rupees), and change more later if needed.
A local SIM card: my.t or Emtel on your way out
Two operators share the arrivals counters: my.t (Mauritius Telecom) and Emtel. Both sell prepaid tourist packages for roughly Rs 500 to 700 depending on the data allowance, usually valid for 30 days with tens of gigabytes, plenty for GPS navigation and lagoon photo uploads. You will need your passport to register the SIM, and activation takes a few minutes at the counter.
If your phone supports eSIMs, both operators offer those too, sometimes purchasable online before departure. 4G coverage is good across almost all inhabited areas and main roads: this will be your GPS for the rest of the trip, so do not skip it. The airport's free Wi-Fi will tide you over while you message the family.
Collecting your rental car: counter or car park delivery
Two systems coexist in Mauritius. The big international brands have counters in the hall or shuttles to nearby depots. Local rental companies, often cheaper, prefer delivery at the airport car park: your contact waits at the arrivals exit with a sign bearing your name, the car is parked two minutes' walk away, and the checkout inspection happens on the spot. Let them know about any flight delay, as WhatsApp numbers work well here.
Before signing, walk around the vehicle calmly: photograph existing scratches, note the fuel level, check the spare wheel, and make sure every driver's licence is registered. A national licence in Latin script is enough for most visitors, with an international permit recommended for others. One last reminder before turning the key: Mauritius drives on the left, a British legacy, and the steering wheel is on the right.
Your first kilometres: the motorway north or west
Leaving the airport is straightforward: one main road quickly joins the motorway that crosses the island from southeast to north (M1 as far as Port Louis, then M2 heading north). For Grand Baie and the northern resorts, allow about 1 h to 1 h 15 depending on traffic around Port Louis: avoid rush hours if you can (7 to 9.30 am and 4 to 6.30 pm), when crossing the capital can add a good half hour.
For Flic-en-Flac and the west coast, leave the motorway before Port Louis and join the A3 coastal road: about 45 minutes in total. For Belle Mare and the east, the plantation road via Flacq takes roughly an hour. Drive gently on this first leg: limits of 110 km/h on the motorway, 80 then 40 or 30 km/h in villages, very real speed cameras, and the occasional pedestrian or dog at the roadside after dark.
First supplies: a supermarket on the way
- The big local chains (Winners, Intermart, Super U, London Way) line every main road: no need to stuff your suitcase with groceries from Europe.
- On the road north, Bagatelle Mall (its own motorway exit, before Port Louis) has a hypermarket that is handy for a first big shop.
- In Grand Baie itself, Super U is an institution, open every day including Sunday morning.
- Towards Flic-en-Flac, you will find supermarkets and shops along the village's main road, and at Cascavelle too.
- Think bottled water for the first few days, local fruit (pineapples, lychees in the austral summer) and sunscreen, which is often pricier than in Europe.
- Most supermarkets take cards with no minimum spend: save your cash for markets and street vendors.
Form filled in before departure, cash from the ATM, local SIM, a photographed vehicle inspection and groceries picked up en route: your Mauritius arrival can genuinely fit into two hours. Collecting a rental car straight at the airport spares you an expensive transfer and makes you free from the very first minute: it is the best investment of the trip. Safe travels, and remember: keep left.